Istanbul is Rather Nice

I finally managed to escape sleepy Bilecik and spend some more time in Istanbul with a friend who lives in the lovely neighborhood of Beskitas. I've come to know my way around the city quite well, and as I explore deeper and gain a sense of familiarity with my surroundings, certain spots reveal a once-concealed charm. Beskitas is among them, with its cobble-stone streets and buzzing fish market, where cats congregate in hopes of a fresh meal and for general recreation. The dog population of Beskitas is evolved. They are by no means going hungry, and they're particularly adept at getting from place to place without causing trouble. Their motions are deliberate, as if they've got an important meeting to attend, or as if they've simply routinized their day. They carry themselves with poise, never stooping to sniff the ground and they enjoy the company of people, choosing to idly share their company if not running late for something.

Besiktas moreover rests on the water, with ferry boats frequently floating across the Bosphorous to Kadakoy, on the Asian side. Simply sitting by the water with a chai and some good company is enough for a memorable afternoon. There's something about sitting by the Bosphorous. The relentless, unexpected gusts of wind, the salty air, the layers of history lying literally beneath your feet, or to your left or right. The cities historic landmarks bleed naturally into the cityscape. They're not unnaturally highlighted for a lucrative tourist industry. Rather, church ruins lean lazily into ancient palaces, bank buildings, or active mosques, themselves over 600 years old.

Bilecik itself has the trappings of ruins of conquerers and past empires. Minarets of old mosques destroyed by the Greeks lie tattered, but standing, near the center of town. On my walk to the Business Administration Faculty, where I teach more frequently this semester, what seem to be old stone fences or barriers wind themselves up and around a large hill.

Some changes to Bilecik have occurred over the past month and a half. It took me a few days to notice the brand new TurkCell store that opened up near my bank. This is Bilecik's third TurkCell store, and I wonder how many are to come. I'm reminded of Greenfield's absurd number of fast food restaurants. I don't include Dunkin' Donuts in that category, because there is always need and appreciation for more of those. But TurkCell seems to be wanting to take over things around here. It's a fascinating company, and I'm slightly threatened by their powerful allure. Their color scheme, orange and blue, is enough to rope any sucker into a more expensive cell phone plan. I'm dropping Turkish Lira like its hot.

One thing hasn't changed in Bilecik. I still sometimes feel like a zoo animal. The stares are comically frequent and deliberate and long. My students, at least, need lessons in what it means to be discreet. And maybe I'll teach them. I am the teacher, after all. Alas, I am being observed carefully as I type. No sudden movements or my stalkers heads might explode. I don't have major self-esteem issues, but this is getting to be a bit much. I know I'm handsome, but I'm a few push-ups and hair gel dabs away from Brad Pitt, ya know?