Fi, Fie, Fo, Urfa

Yesterday's trip to Urfa was a highlight of my so-far fascinating four months here. Urfa, similarly to Gaziantep but in a more explicit capacity, stands in contrast to the Turkey's "European" north-east. While the cities of the north-east have adopted the trappings of Western architecture, design, and culture, the south/south-east remains very much steeped in the tradition of the Middle East. Urfa's open displays of religious piety, arabesque architecture, earth-toned city-scape, and general sense of gentility reminded me somewhat of small neighborhoods in Cairo.

Not-to-mention the religious significance as what seems to tie the Middle East together for me. The Holy Land (which I broadly understand as the places of Quaranic and Biblical tales) very much includes the southern portion of Turkey. Witnessing the alleged site of the birthplace of Abraham was a pleasant surprise, and Balikli Gol, where Nimrod threw Abraham into a fire, which was then turned into a pool of sacred fish, is beautifully situated between the Great Mosque of Urfa (once a church), and the marketplace of the old city. Job - my favorite religious-historical person - is also said to have been born here.

My friend and I walked the buzzzing streets of Urfa in between each azaan (call to prayer), encountering a whirlwind of heavily rhythmic music, the sweet yet mild aroma of elma shisha from the dozens of outdoor cafes populating the old city, and the allure of one of Turkey's greatest culinary achievement, freshly-baked kunefe. We took advantage of all there was to offer, and left the city full of food and contentment. It was a day I hope to remember for a long time. The layers of Urfa's history dazzle and enchant, and best came into view as we stood atop the Urfa Castle ruins gazing at Roman pillars from the 1st century, Urfa's Great Mosque, and the Turkish flag flapping in the wind. Wow - what a place.