Gaziantep in Early January

The ever-present diversity of Turkish society is a thing easily missed, but my journey to Gaziantep, to visit a close friend of mine in the program, revealed layers I've blithely ignored. Because my exposure to Turkey has been so stimulating, I've only adjusted to my region and a few choice places I find myself regularly visiting on the weekends. Istanbul, Bursa, Eskisehir, for example, top the list.

But as I walked through the streets of Gaziantep, a city to the south-east, near the Syrian border, I couldn't help but feel more foreign than I've felt in my 3-4 months here. At times, I felt more as though I were back in Cairo than anyplace I've been in Turkey. I described the difference as that between "day and night" - as a stark interlude between my time in Bilecik and my time in Istanbul. But I'm thrilled I've had (and continue to have) the opportunity to witness it.

The sky is wider here, and paler too, and the people resemble the subdued, vacant sky. It's mysterious to me, and I hope to get a better sense of the unknown in the next few days. The mosques I've noticed to be more diverse and intricate than those I've grown accustomed to in Bilecik, probably because of the Arab and the Persian influences that have swept through this area like turned pages in a history book.

Without going into too much detail, Gaziantep proudly stands up to its name as having the best food in Turkey. My visit to a famous eatery yesterday left me sublimely content. The baklava is what I'd expect to find in heaven - crunchy, sweet, delicate, and rich - and stood in contrast with the bitter air and the wary stares of city-dwellers.