Eskisehir

My friend is right. Eskisehir, Turkey is a perfect setting for the next romantic comedy. I traveled there this weekend having been exhausted by enthusiastic tales of its charm. Naturally, I went there with substantial expectations, but I wasn't let down in the slightest. It's a young city, which may have had something to do with it. But besides that, it's simply beautiful and full of life. It lies on either side of a small river, dotted with small boats that load customers and set off for voyages of 15 to 20 minutes. Sounds like Venice, yea? Not to mention the shop-lined canal, bustling with trendy fashionistas, young couples, and weathered old men puffing cigarettes and clutching newspapers. My enthusiasm for this city will not dwindle, and when I share in its charm, I can confidently say it's a wonderful wonderful experience.

What's interesting about Eskisehir, though, is that it's virtually unmentioned in the guidebooks, which makes it a gem for visitors who come to visit me. It's only an hour and a half by bus, and only 40 minutes by car, which makes for an easy day-trip. What I found unique about the city in particular, was it's European essence, especially as my friends and I cruised the canal with its boats, statues, and beds of flowers. Not that these are uncommon in Anatolia, but a European spirit was pervasive in a way unfelt in Bursa or Ankara. It's tough to put into words, but a quick trip to Khave Dunyasi might solidify the same notion in your mind. Think of the overwhelming scent of coffee and chocolate, mixed with a light tang of cigarettes lingering in the cool air, and finally, soft house music adding electricity to our surroundings.

We stayed with some wonderful hosts who showed us a good time on Friday night and through till Sunday. Their hospitality was overwhelming, and the conversations we were able to have were compelling and meaningful. We talked, for awhile, about religiosity in Turkey and in a broader sense - its power, benefit, curse, and its role as divisive weapon and also as a safehaven and an often necessary refuge. The contradiction between the beauty of values and meaning found in nearly all religions, and its corrupted practice, will baffle the mind for ages. Love and war have a funny way of overlapping, it seems. Everyone's opinion was shared, valid, and considered. I can't thank our hosts enough for their warmth, generosity, and openness.

I'll post some pictures for you all to enjoy. I'm enjoying my days, despite the dreaded and incessant phone calls from disagreeable bureaucrats. But I keep trudging onward and upward like I should. I've stayed so open to this experience and I thank God for that.

Goodnight.